爵士即自由

來了三藩市沒多少天就碰上美國國慶,下午已開始有煙火爆響,我找不到高興的理由,誤打誤撞卻去了Fillmore jazz festival, 看見黑白長者即興共舞,一切自然,性感美麗,年紀膚色只是生命的色彩而不是階級的標示。另有女色士風手,吸一口氣,呼出柔柔長長的美音,really handsome ,也有銀髮diva,一開聲,攝魂,她在大街臨時的台上叫大家合唱,集體才是美,於是幾百人共唱i do care 。一點三公里的音樂,薯片(有免費派的),各种口音,深淺膚色,各地美食,真有些感動。當藍調樂手唱著典型美式個人主義歌詞 「每個人都是英雄,每個人都可以拯世界」時,竟也呆了。

大街上的偶遇,陌生人的微笑,鬆動才嘗得到的甜味。即興的身體觸碰,一隻打開的手,聳聳肩的玩笑。共享此刻生活的溫熱。給我感受了公共空間嘉年華會的本質: 為生而為人而快樂,沒有國界性別種族年紀之分。當然,只是短暫的。也大概有地方性的。 美國不見得處處如此,天天如是。

回家google 一下,原來Fillmore 真是Jazz的寶地,是美國西岸爵士搖藍,1940s 是Fillmore 的黃金年代,附近都住了很多不同國藉的朋友,有專業有基層,有日本人、猶太人、非洲人,非常多元的文化地區,也成為音樂及娛樂地區,沿街都是爵士酒館,歌手如Ella Fitzgerald, Duke Ellington, Count Basie, and Billie Holliday都曾在此地演唱,嘩。還有Louis Armstrong 曾到此看 Charlie Parker 的 Jam session (據說是他倆唯一一次同場出現). 還有 John Handy 跟John Coltrane 通宵地玩。所以有Bop City 之稱。(參看自: http://www.fillmorejazzfestival.com/?op=history)

爵士: 包容各色靈魂之聲

樂觀的色士風手John Handy,當時認定音樂如學校,可以成為教育年輕人的方法,建立道德模範及文化身份共同體:

“Bop City because of its inclusion of all this new, different music became kind of like a school. It was a conservatory, a classroom, a performance room; it was all that in one. It was also a place where you learned the behavior, the modus operandi of just how to handle yourself in that kind of company…It’s unutterable. Sometimes people would get up and the world would come to an end because of what they were doing; the music was that good…Sometimes a person would play an idea that you’d like to duplicate or build from. That’s how I really learned to play, by watching other people play the saxophone."

(資料來源:What’s th e History of San Francisco’s Fillmore Neighborhood?)

而著有“Harlem of the west" ,並一直希望保留這種多元文化的錄像藝術家,這樣形容當時的氣氛及值得保留的原因:

"What has always appealed to me about the Fillmore of the 1940s and ’50s is its multiculturalism and its integration of all classes. There were doctors and lawyers living next to janitors and shop clerks. African Americans and Japanese Americans and Jews and Euro-Americans all living side by side in one big mix. That, to me, is what makes a vibrant neighborhood. And what is important not to lose."

惡夢:重建計劃

1960s美國成立The Redevelopment Authority,設立大型基金誘使各地方政府重建城市,所謂美化地方,各地方爭相利用基金,三藩市市政府看準了黑人地區Fillmore,一邊抹黑該區為九反地帶,一邊進行大型清拆。加上六十年代種族歧視問題日益浮面,再來是Fillmore附近的造船所結業,區內失業嚴重,裡裡外外夾逼,結果共約二萬名黑人居民被逼走,或拿取不合理的極少賠償而離開。

唉,這樣的故事,真是無處不在。我們都不陌生。地區歧視。顏色政治。空間清洗。全球性的士紳化。

今天,沿街我只看見美麗steak house(約US$100一位),名牌商店,設計家品店,摩登樓房,很難想像當年一步一樓是音樂的氛圍。有幸遇上一年只有兩天在街上舉行的音樂節,享受剩餘的自由之風。又或走入附近的Jazz Heritage Cente 景仰一下,但,噢,她好像已經關了門。

不過,仍有好心人,持續關注,“Harlem of the West: The San Francisco Fillmore Jazz Era". 兩位作者將有新計劃,並在網上集資,希望成事,計劃詳情

看見黑白長者在大街起舞,不禁想起在香港反大媽行動,不關膚色,而是文化來源地,這些新來港的中年師奶被認定是紅色,來旺角跳忠字舞,又被藍絲保護,這跟從前在公園看見的大媽(成份)很不同,但未能親眼見識到,只希望音樂、舞蹈還原簡單的表達,在語言以外打開不同的天地,而不是用來強奪空間,也不關品味高下,更不應是意識形態的工具。當然,生活空間(包括視覺及聽覺)及公共空間的質素成為香港土生的公民死命捍維的低線,又怎不會理解。除了有你無我的思維,還可以有什麼。

參考:

Swing the Fillmore: A look back at San Francisco’s bebop era by The Fillmore’s associate producer Elizabeth Pepin.

Gone But Not Forgotten: Project Seeks To Memorialize The Harlem Of The West

標籤:, , , , , , , , , ,

About cally

don't be cruel. smell the light. read the music. feel the green.

發表迴響

在下方填入你的資料或按右方圖示以社群網站登入:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / 變更 )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / 變更 )

Facebook照片

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / 變更 )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / 變更 )

連結到 %s

%d 位部落客按了讚: